The master of sexy fashion shuns his trademark animal prints and body-clinging clothes, replacing them with sparkling fabric in high society styles.

But despite the glitter there was something dark about the womenswear collection presented Saturday, a reflection of the prevailing aggressive mood of this round of preview showings.

The extravagant fur coats for example, shaggy and black with splashes of bright red or yellow, were something Cruella De Vil, Disney's despised dognapper, might favor.The shoes, too, came with a nasty high metal heel.

But the series of cocktail and evening dresses, with hand-stitched sequined prints inspired by works in the museums of designer Cavalli's native Florence were literally awesome.Whether floor length, with dipping neckline, or short with demure pleated skirt and sleeveless top, the outfits are a treat to the eye and a relief from the edgy feel of next winter's fashion.

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Tsarnaev, 19, was charged in his hospital room, where he was in serious condition with a gunshot wound to the throat and other injuries suffered during his attempted getaway. His older brother, Tamerlan, 26, died Friday after a fierce gunbattle with police.

The Massachusetts college student was charged with using and conspiring to use a weapon of mass destruction. He was accused of joining with his brother in setting off the shrapnel-packed pressure-cooker bombs that killed three people and wounded more than 200 a week ago.

The brothers, ethnic Chechens from Russia who had been living in the U.S. for about a decade, practiced Islam.

Two U.S. officials said preliminary evidence from the younger man's interrogation suggests the brothers were motivated by religious extremism but were apparently not involved with Islamic terrorist organizations.

Dzhokhar communicated with his interrogators in writing, precluding the type of back-and-forth exchanges often crucial to establishing key facts, said the officials, who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not authorized to discuss the investigation publicly.

They cautioned that they were still trying to verify what they were told by Tsarnaev and were looking at such things as his telephone and online communications and his associations with others.

In the criminal complaint outlining the allegations, investigators said Tsarnaev and his brother each placed a knapsack containing a bomb in the crowd near the finish line of the 26.2-mile race.

The FBI said surveillance-camera footage showed Dzhokhar manipulating his cellphone and lifting it to his ear just instants before the two blasts.

After the first blast, a block away from Dzhokhar, "virtually every head turns to the east ... and stares in that direction in apparent bewilderment and alarm," the complaint says. Dzhokhar Tsarnaev, "virtually alone of the individuals in front of the restaurant, appears calm."

He then quickly walked away, leaving a knapsack on the ground; about 10 seconds later, a bomb blew up at the spot where he had been standing, the FBI said.

The FBI did not say whether he was using his cellphone to detonate one or both of the bombs or whether he was talking to someone.

The criminal complaint shed no light on the motive for the attack.

The Obama administration said it had no choice but to prosecute Dzhokhar Tsarnaev in the federal court system. Some politicians had suggested he be tried as an enemy combatant in front of a military tribunal, where defendants are denied some of the usual constitutional protections.

But Tsarnaev is a naturalized U.S. citizen, and under U.S. law, American citizens cannot be tried by military tribunals, White House spokesman Jay Carney said. Carney said that since 9/11, the federal court system has been used to convict and imprison hundreds of terrorists.

Also on Monday, Kazakhstan's Ministry of Foreign Affairs issued a statement saying two foreign nationals arrested Saturday in the Boston area on immigration violations are from Kazakhstan and may have known the two Marathon bombing suspects.

The foreign ministry said U.S. authorities came across them while searching for "possible links and contacts" to Dzhokhar Tsarnaev. Their names have not been released.

Shortly after the charges against Tsarnaev were unveiled, Boston-area residents and many of their well-wishers including President Barack Obama at the White House observed a moment of silence at 2:49 p.m. the moment a week earlier when the bombs exploded.

Across Massachusetts, the silence was broken by the tolling of church bells.

"God bless the people of Massachusetts," said Gov. Deval Patrick at a ceremony outside the Statehouse. "Boston Strong."

The governor and Roman Catholic Cardinal Sean O'Malley were among the mourners at St. Joseph Church at the first funeral for one of the victims, Krystle Campbell. The 29-year-old restaurant manager had gone to watch a friend finish the race.

"She was always there for people. As long as Krystle was around, you were OK," said Marishi Charles, who attended the Mass. "These were the words her family wanted you to remember."

At a memorial service for Lu Lingzi, a 23-year-old graduate student at Boston University, friends and family vowed not to forget the light in their lives that was extinguished too soon.

"You need us to be strong and brave," Jing Li said of her roommate, killed as she watched the marathon a week ago. "We will keep running to finish the race for you and we will try to realize your unfinished dream."

Patrick also attended that service.

Amid a swirl of emotions in Boston, there was cause for some celebration: Doctors announced that everyone injured in the blasts who made it to a hospital alive now seems likely to survive.

That includes several people who arrived with legs attached by just a little skin, a 3-year-old boy with a head wound and bleeding on the brain, and a little girl riddled with nails.

"All I feel is joy," said Dr. George Velmahos, chief of trauma surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, referring to his hospital's 31 blast patients. "Whoever came in alive stayed alive."

As of Monday, 51 people remained hospitalized, three of them in critical condition. At least 14 people lost all or part of a limb; three of them lost more than one.

Dzhokhar Tsarnaev had gunshot wounds to the head, neck, legs and hands when he was captured hiding out in a boat in a backyard in the Boston suburb of Watertown, authorities said.

A probable cause hearing at which prosecutors will spell out the basics of their case was set for May 30. According to a clerk's notes of Monday's proceedings in the hospital, U.S. Magistrate Judge Marianne Bowler indicated she was satisfied that Tsarnaev was "alert and able to respond to the charges."

Tsarnaev did not speak during the proceeding, except to answer "no" when he was asked if he could afford his own lawyer, according to the notes. He nodded when asked if he was able to answer some questions and whether he understood his rights as explained to him by the judge.

Federal Public Defender Miriam Conrad, whose office has been assigned to represent Tsarnaev, declined to comment.

Tsarnaev could also face state charges in the slaying of a Massachusetts Institute of Technology police officer, who was shot in his cruiser Thursday night on the MIT campus in Cambridge.

News of the criminal charges pleased some of the people gathered at a makeshift memorial along the police barricades on Boylston Street, where the attack took place.

Amy McPate a Massachusetts native now living in Maine, said she usually opposes the death penalty, but thinks it should apply in this case.

"They were more than murderers. They're terrorists. They terrorized the city," she said. "The nation has been terrorized."

Kaitlynn Cates of Everett, who suffered a leg injury in the bombing, said from her hospital room: "He has what's coming to him."

Among the details in the FBI affidavit:

One of the brothers it wasn't clear which one told a carjacking victim during their getaway attempt, "Did you hear about the Boston explosion? I did that."

The FBI said it searched Tsarnaev's dorm room at the University of Massachusetts-Dartmouth on Sunday and found BBs as well as a white hat and dark jacket that look like those worn by one of the suspected bombers in the surveillance photos the FBI released a few days after the attack.

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Associated Press writers Eileen Sullivan and Pete Yost in Washington and Steve Peoples, Allen Breed, Bridget Murphy, Jay Lindsay and Bob Salsberg in Boston contributed to this report.

First of all, in the unique presentation of her Le Moine Tricote collection via three different mediums in three different rooms: there were edgy photos, vintage-looking video projections, and the clothes themselves on mannequins.

If the designer's aim was to get home the idea that in fashion it's not what is worn, but how it's worn, that affects style, it was a success: Each of the 15 ensembles had a completely different look depending on the room.

Second of all, there were new ideas in the direction of the up-and-comer's knitwear line itself, which saw the repertoire this fall-winter 2013-14 spun out to include stricter woven fabrics. They provided a subtle but welcome contrast to the more feminine thick-knit tailored jackets in black, beige and gray.

"The idea was to complete the collection. Woven and knit is mixed," said Lemoine, walking in between mannequins. "I'm mentally double. The back side is woven, strict, the front side knit."

The strongest piece in the show was a fantastic black mid-length coat dress that had pockets, a lapel and sleeves in billowing wool to imitate fur.

Sporty flashes, like a streak of burgundy on a heavy knitted black dress, ticked the hip box.

But the collection overall remained thoroughly feminine, thanks to the natural roundness of the thick-knit silhouettes.

This season, ladylike is the name of the game.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

The budget proposal that President Barack Obama unveiled Wednesdayincludes a highly controversial measure that wouldin many Social Securityand Medicare payments over time. While the document is as Yahoo News Olivier Knox wrote yesterday, it quickly exposed fracture linesamong Democrats over the future of the entitlement programs.

Ballooning entitlement payments are the most visible aspectof a pressing budgetary concern: Every year, the government has less immediatecontrol over how much money it spends. Of the $3.77 trillion in Obamas fiscalyear 2014 budget, $2.31 trillion of it is mandatory spending required by law.Social Security, Medicare and Medicaid make up the bulk of that spending, butthere are all sorts of other things in there, as well: disaster relief funds,highway aid, nutritional programs and so forth. Only $1.2 trillion goes todiscretionary spending, which consists of most agency funding. Half of thatis related to defense.

The following infographic arranges Obamas budget in threerings. The innermost ring shows the entire budget divided by how much ismandatory versus discretionary, plus a third category for interest payments onthe national debt. As you move outward, you see those categories subdivided byagency and then by program. Mouse over a slice to see the exact value.

Because this is highly granular data that the White Houseprovides asto its budget, thetotals in the graphic will be a bit higher than in the summary figures in mostnews reports. This is often because some agencies produce small amounts ofrevenue to offset costs, such as leasing federal land. Those negative valuesare difficult to represent in physical space on the screen.

NEW YORK (Reuters) - Apple may have lost nearly half of its value since its peak in September, but it's still the talk of the town. Only this time, it's all about how low can it go?

Wall Street would normally be set for a technical rebound after a drop of more than 2 percent, the worst weekly decline so far this year. But that could easily change by the time the iPhone maker reports its earnings, which are due on Tuesday after the closing bell.

"It's not the $700 stock anymore, but Apple still has huge weighting on indexes, and it's still the window into the state of consumers, a sort of reality check," said James Dailey, portfolio manager of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania-based TEAM Financial Asset Management.

Wall Street has been recently pressured by a slew of disappointing economic data and weaker-than-expected earnings reports from blue-chip companies like IBM .

For the week, the Dow fell 2.1 percent, the S&P 500 also lost 2.1 percent and the Nasdaq slid 2.7 percent.

"The critical level next week would be 1,540 on the S&P 500, which is near the 50-day moving average," said Andre Bakhos, director of market analytics at Lek Securities in New York.

He added that a dip below this mark would bring "additional weakness to as low as 1,500 levels."

On Friday, the benchmark S&P 500 index closed at 1,555.25.

With the earnings season in full swing, the growth in S&P 500 companies' first-quarter earnings is now estimated at 2.2 percent, up from an April 1 forecast for growth of 1.5 percent, according to Thomson Reuters data, based on results from 104 companies and estimates for the rest.

Of the companies that have reported, 67.3 percent have beaten analysts' earnings expectations, while just 43.3 percent have beaten revenue estimates. Revenue growth is seen at just 0.7 percent for the first quarter over the year-ago period.

About a third of S&P 500 companies and a third of the Dow components - 10 blue-chip companies - are scheduled to report earnings next week.

Among Dow stocks, Caterpillarkicks off on Monday, followed by DuPont , United Technologies Corpand Travelerson Tuesday.

Boeingand Procter & Gamblereport on Wednesday, followed by Exxon Mobilon Thursday. Chevronwraps up the week by reporting on Friday.

APPLE BRUISED BY THE BEARS

Once a Wall Street darling, Apple faces tough questions from shareholders next week. Its stock is down more than 40 percent from its peak in September.

And for this year alone, Apple is down 27 percent - still firmly in the grip of a bear market, which Wall Street defines as the loss of 20 percent or more from a recent peak.

The company is expected to report a mere 8 percent gain in quarterly revenue, among the weakest displays of quarterly growth in years, according to average analysts' estimates, polled by Reuters.

Earnings per share are expected to fall 18 percent as Samsung Electronics and other hard-charging rivals erode Apple's market share and put pressure on its margins.

"The market is aware that Apple is not going to report good numbers. But it will be interesting to see how the stock reacts, considering that it's already been pressured leading up to the earnings announcement," Dailey said.

Apple shares closed below $400 on Thursday for the first time since December 2011. The stock has shed more than $280 billion in market value since peaking at more than $700 a share in September. On Friday, the stock closed down 0.4 percent at $390.53.

But Apple, which was once the world's most valuable company, is trading at nine times trailing earnings. And 45 of 58 analysts polled by Reuters give the stock a "strong buy" or "buy" rating.

According to Thomson Reuters Starmine, Apple's intrinsic value - a price target based on expected growth rates over the next decade - was about $565 a share.

HOME SALES AND GDP ON TAP

Economic indicators in the coming week will cover housing, manufacturing and a first look at first-quarter gross domestic product. In the housing sector, March figures for existing home sales are due on Monday and new home sales on Tuesday. Economists polled by Reuters have forecast slight gains in both March existing and new home sales over February figures.

U.S. durable goods orders for March will be released on Wednesday, with the forecast calling for a drop in March following February's gain. Durable goods are manufactured goods, such as washing machines and refrigerators, meant to last three years or more.

Thursday's data on weekly U.S. initial claims for jobless benefits are projected to dip to 351,000 for the latest week.

On Friday, Wall Street will get a snapshot of the broad economy, measured by gross domestic product, or the output of all goods and services inside U.S. borders. First-quarter GDP is forecast to have grown at an annual rate of 3 percent, compared with growth at an annual pace of just 0.4 percent for the fourth quarter.

A final reading for April on U.S. consumer sentiment will come out on Friday from the Thomson Reuters/University of Michigan Surveys of Consumers. The forecast calls for a blip higher to a reading of 73.0 from a previous reading of 72.3.

(Wall St Week Ahead runs every Friday. Questions or comments on this story can be emailed to: angela.moon(at)thomsonreuters.com )

(Additional reporting by Caroline Valetkevitch and Doris Frankel; Editing by Jan Paschal)