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Fashion Shows: Laura Siegel

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 10:27:18 +0900

Fashion Shows: Laura Siegel
The stereotypical free spirits in movies are always hippy-dippy and wound with scarves, and have names like Ariel and Summer and Naomi. They reek of patchouli (organic!) and make their own yoghurt and you're never sure what, really, they actually DO for a living.

The models in Laura Siegel's show are a lot like those women. You'd be sulky too, if you had to go barefoot and walk around salvaged-wood boards, then lean on crates and pallets that have been styled with rope. But then you 'd smile, wanly (because you're vegan), because the clothes? They're beautiful.
Clingy sheer-ish jersey with cutout shoulders, fluttering apricot chiffon, hemp hems and tie-dyed pale aqua silk cloaks are embellished with elaborate breastplates and fringes of celadon and mint seed beads Miles Austin Jerseys - thousands of them. They're accessorized with wood bead ankle bracelets , tight fringed legwarmers and miniskirts dotted with bits of yarn, thread and fabric, a bird's nest in progress.

Some of the faint prints are from hand-carved blocks that Siegel - whose mantra is sustainable fashion - created working with a traditional Ajrakh block-printing family in India, along with batches of naturally-dyed fabric. Alternating shrugs of vanilla gauze and cheesecloth get tucked, pleated and generally haphazardly tacked into place. The draped and wrapped pieces are dishabille - ethereal and versatile to the point of indistinguishable. Is all that cantilevered gauze a cape-cowl, a gown - or both?

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Shinan: Barbara Amiel, queen and sober

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 10:26:02 +0900

Shinan: Barbara Amiel, queen and sober
Showing well-versed panache Saturday at one of the more superlative (and vodka-drenched) annuals in the gala calendar, she waved off the shots that seemed socially de rigueur that night, this being a Russian a-go-go dubbed the Chagall Ball , aka the black tie tie-in to the tremendous new exhibition at the Art Gallery of Ontario.

If nothing else it was a chance for the Lady, who's also a famed teetotaler, to show off the famous grit she's built over the years, or as she expressed in a column in Maclean's last year, "Those of you who drink, just about everyone it seems, have no idea how awful it is to go through life stone-cold sober, though I can well imagine how equally boring it makes me to you. "
As the ceremonial sips of Stoli coursed through the night, it loosened up the most swellegant of Torontonians, allowing, at the same time, a deviation from the normal rules of civility in the 21st century (when shots are typically reserved for the Jersey Shore species ). A test from God - could it be? - for the ever-fastidious Amiel, who's also previously described the "hours of agony" she's experienced "stranded at those dinners talking to people whose blood-alcohol count would kill any Breathalyzer and did not kill any intelligent conversation. "

Perhaps, then, she enjoyed the beef stroganoff, rendered by house chef Anne Yarymowich, and cast with crisp potato latke, baby ruby chard, wild mushroom and sour cream sauce? At the very least, it was something to tell her Vanity Fair-worthy a red Mae West-">husband, who on account of his latest exchange program, couldn't, of course, make it. (Nota bene: Babs was an age-defying eye-full this eve. Leading with the chest, she came in a red Mae West- ish wasp-waisted number of a ball gown, one that both Conrad and Chagall would have approved of!)

The Russian avant-garde do have their lure, don't they? Celebrating the massive, whimsy-whisked show - balloon'ed in Miles Austin Jerseys from the Pompidou, it seemed - was an all-around jubilant crowd. The roof-fiddling Norman Jewison, there with his love (and honorary event co-chair, Lynne St. David Jewison), for instance. And Karen Kain. Deepa Mehta. Ben and Jessica Mulroney. Ed and Suzanne Rogers. Oh, and a late-arriving Kim Cattrall - getting as fast as she could off-stage, from the Private Lives run she's doing at the Royal Alex in order to be carted off to the AGO.

The early-bird modernist and the hero that art critic Robert Hughes once described as the "quintessential Jewish artist of the 20th century" is, in fact, proving to be more of a bait than King Tut himself. According to a figure from the AGO , Chagall and the gang brought out 4,727 members on the first full come-see the next day, compared to the 3,664 who came out to see old Tut during his close-up at the same space in 2009 - making this new show the highest one -day member preview since the gallery's Gehry-friendly reopening!

But back to Saturday night's fancy-pants gala, where membership truly did have its privileges. As the night was whittling away, and the vodka flowed, and the stage-ready guests echoed the kaleidoscope on the walls, one was reminded of the circus theme that Chagall returned to repeatedly in his work.

"For me, a circus is a magic show, disturbing, profound," he once explained. "I have always looked upon clowns, acrobats and actors as beings with a tragic humanity."

Canucks can't solve Rangers' Lundqvist

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 10:24:56 +0900

Canucks can't solve Rangers' Lundqvist
Of course, Vigneault's goal, one of only two he scored in a brief 42-game NHL career, came against a goalie named Steve Baker, not Henrik Lundqvist.

King Henrik, as he is sometimes known in the Big Apple, stole a game for the Rangers on Tuesday night. Lundqvist turned aside all 40 shots the Canucks fired his way and was absolutely brilliant as the Rangers earned their first win of the season, a 4-0 decision over the Canucks at Rogers Arena.

For two periods, at least, the Canucks deserved a better fate. Until they faded midway through the third, the Canucks were playing perhaps their most complete game of the season. Except for the putting-the-puck-in-the-net part . They outshot the Rangers 40-19.

The Canucks were ultimately done in by their power play, which went 0-for-8, and by some shaky goaltending from Roberto Luongo.

"The first 40 minutes we did everything we were supposed to do except finish," Vigneault said. "The last period obviously wasn't good enough. The first two periods, I think we gave them two scoring chances."

"I thought our first two periods weren't bad," added Canuck captain Henrik Sedin. "We outshot them badly and gave up nine shots in two periods. [But] our power play has to score. We had a lot of chances and when you don't score on those usually it is going to hurt you. "

Mike Rupp scored the winner at 2:22 of the third when he put a rebound past Luongo from the left faceoff circle. Luongo made the initial save on a shot by Ranger defenceman Michael Del Zotto Miles Austin Jerseys but delivered a juicy rebound to Rupp.

Ryan McDonagh made it 2-0 at 9:57 of the third when he beat Luongo short side from the slot. Brain Boyle, off a 3-on-1 rush, also went short side on Luongo at the 11:30 mark to make it 3-0.

Marian Gaborik made it 4-0 at 17:39 when he tapped home a goalmouth pass from McDonagh.

Through his first four starts, Luongo's goals-against average is 3.70 and his save percentage an abysmal .856. It's probably a safe bet that Cory Schneider will start when the Canucks play host to the Nashville Predators on Thursday night.

The game was preceded by an emotional tribute to former Canucks forward Rick Rypien, who lost his long battle with depression this summer. Members of Rypien's family were present and defenceman Kevin Bieksa, Rypien's best friend on the Canucks, presented them with Rypien's jersey from the team's 40th anniversary season.

The game also marked the return of centre Ryan Kesler, who had missed the entire pre-season and the first five games of the regular season following off-season hip surgery.

"You have to give their goalie credit," Kesler said. "We are going to have games like this. They were forcing us hard [on the power play] but I thought we had some pretty good chances. We just need to bury them . That's the difference is the power play. We get one early and put them back on their heels. "

But Lundqvist wasn't going to let that happen. He not only stopped everything directed his way, his rebound control was superb. The Canucks did not get many second chances.

"Everything changed when we scored the first goal," Lundqvist said. "We built some confidence and they felt like they had to do more and it just opened it up for us and the second, third and fourth came as well."

Lundqvist did his post-game interviews wearing a fedora, which one of the Rangers bought during the team's recent trip in Europe.

"We call it the Broadway hat and someone has to wear it after each win and tonight it was my turn," he said.

The Canucks had a 13-5 edge in shots in a scoreless first period, when both teams had two power plays. Alex Burrows had the best chance on Vancouver's first power play when he forced Lundqvist to make a glove save on a shot from the slot .

On the Canucks' second power play, the Canucks tested Lundqvist with three hard shots from the point - two by Sami Salo and another by Dan Hamhuis.

The Canucks continued to pepper Lundqvist with shots in the second period, when they had a 15-4 edge in shots. The Canucks had three more power plays in the second period. Their best chance may have came on the last one, when Burrows deflected a Hamhuis point shot right in front of Lundqvist, but the Ranger goalie stopped it.

Lundqvist made a couple of huge saves early in the third, robbing Alex Edler on a rush and then stopping Jannik Hansen on the rebound.

The Rangers are now 1-1-2 on the season. The Canucks fell below .500, at 2-3-1.

Notes: Before the game, Vigneault joked about that goal he scored against the Rangers: "It was one of the prettiest goals you'll ever see in your life." ... Nashville Predators coach Barry Trotz took in Tuesday night's game ... Rangers defenceman Dan Girardi logged a game-high 28:53 of ice time ... Burrows had a game-high six shots. Hamhuis and Bieksa had five apiece.

Concert Review: Odd Future Wolf Gang Kill Them A

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 10:24:19 +0900

Concert Review: Odd Future Wolf Gang Kill Them All at the Sound Academy in Toronto
It's not the music by hip-hop miscreants Odd Future Wolf Gang Kill Them All that rankles the music world, but the politics (or lack thereof) espoused by the often homophobic, misogynistic, and generally foul-mouthed words Tyler, the Creator and his party-minded brethren spout to crowds via both their recorded output and their live performances. Still, the LA crew has been reaching millions of music fans (mostly teenage) this year and their long-sold-out show at the Sound Academy Tuesday night offered proof of their cult-like following: the crowd was chanting "Wolf Gang" and throwing their hands up enthusiastically before they had even taken the stage. But is Odd Future about the music or the messages, such as "Kill people, burn s- t, f-k school, "embodied thereby?
It depends which member you talk to. Ask Hodgy Beats, by far the group's most talented member, and you'll get a definite answer: the music. With a hand in both the production and songwriting for most of the collective's many sub-groups , and a gift for flow - his lyrical flurries on igotagun or F-k The Police offered live proof - Hodgy's attention to detail is evidence that the Odd Future is about more than just vulgar language and nihilistic attitude. Mike G might answer the same: the rapper wowed on some of the night's standout tracks. His verses on laid-back tracks including Everything That's Yours, Loaded, and Forest Green all fared better than some of Odd Future's heavier output, which was muddled by distortion and the echoing space of the Miles Austin Jerseys venue. Domo Genesis, the musical mastermind behind most of the group's beats, rapped on Tang Golf, but he's hardly a lyricist.

So it's Odd Future's founder Tyler, the Creator who provides the controversy for the group, even in the live setting. Seconds after performing Transylvania, he addressed the photographers in the front row, snapping him in his Team Canada hockey jersey, grousing that, " There isn't even music going on! "Tellingly, Tyler was being photographed at all times for the same reason he was greeted most enthusiastically by the sold-out crowd: he's a character. Even amongst the rest of the group's carnivalesque onstage antics, Tyler is the most engaging, inciting the crowd - and a fan who climbed dangerously high up one of the venue's pillars - to jump. (The fan didn't; the crowd did.) The drama and controversy of his persona translate effectively live: his seemingly nihilistic message, which itself is an exaggeration of his teenage angst about himself, his sexuality, and the world around him, is suited perfectly to a ritualistic setting in which a horde of teenagers revel in their anxiety, only to leave the venue at the show's end wearing their sweaty mops of hair and pasted-on t-shirts like badges of honour. It might also explain why one fan was heard to enthuse that his glasses were covered in the water that Tyler, the Creater himself spat into the crowd .

Technically, then, Odd Future are about both music and a message whose appeal to teens is utterly apparent. No, they aren't about to "kill people," or "burn s-t," or give up on school, as set -closer and highlight Radicals suggests they do. Instead, they're going to do as Tyler does, and escape, at least for a few hours, from the insistent drama of teenage life. And isn't that what live music is about?

Verdict: Though already a spectacle live, maturity should bring even better music and showmanship from this young and controversial hip-hop collective. For now, it's all about living in the moment.

Fashion Shows: Sid Neigum

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 10:22:48 +0900

Fashion Shows: Sid Neigum
There ought to be some kind of rule wherein designers - especially male designers - should have to walk a mile, and spend an hour (or five), in the shoes they inflict on models, and women in general. (Looking at you, Ron White All Day Heels.) Because I pity the girls at Sid Neigum who were made to clomp down the runway - plus up and down freshly-painted risers - in chunky wood chopines. Granted it's all relative and with the way women's footwear has gone lately , these aren't as much of a stretch as they once were, but still. They looked perilous enough to distract from the clothes and frankly don't add much to the overall samurai effect of all that draped jersey anyway. The high topknot ( Queen West bun) does more, even though it Miles Austin Jerseys simultaneously conjures Little My from the Moomin cartoons.">aka the Queen West bun) does more, even though it simultaneously conjures Little My from the Moomin cartoons.

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action movie Detective Dee (set in 7th century China) and I recently reviewed the Hong Kong action movie Detective Dee (set in 7th century China) and parts of Neigum's show reminded me of those costumes too, albeit in a less costumey way. It's all mostly black, some prints (a kaleidscopic teal and green that fades out to polka-dots), terra cotta and flashes of aquarium-green leather. It's modern, and it's a mash of Japanese, Chinese and Renaissance nods: tailored jackets with peaked front and back (like a traditional morning coat tail), a generously cut skirt in something like waxed cotton. There's even a jerkin. The mix is loose and slinky under tailored and sometimes, severe. Harem pants and sharp jackets, jacket dresses, et cetera.

Now, I wear those comfy, forgiving dhoti pants regularly myself but save for the many - oh so many! - I see on male fashion show models, I have maybe glimpsed them on a handful of guys off the runway. Total. Ditto the snug shortish shorts, here in grey leather or rust material that looks like soggy fun fur. Please explain?

But I'll probably see these paper bag waist carrot pants, and hopefully the really great storm-grey jacket with strong, squared shoulders and overlapping yoke of different lengths. It all kinda works - well, except for the models' eyebrows. The permanently surprised slashes of pasted-on black are only slightly more obvious than politico Ron Paul's recent eyebrow toupée malfunction.

The good and bad news about the U.S. economy

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 10:20:42 +0900

The good and bad news about the U.S. economy
Optimism over the economy was, however, tempered by other data on Thursday showing a drop in sales of previously owned homes last month and only a small rise in a gauge of future growth.

Initial claims for state unemployment benefits slipped 6,000 to a seasonally adjusted 403,000, the Labor Department said. Economists had forecast claims falling to 400,000.

Separately, the Philadelphia Federal Reserve Bank said its business activity index rebounded to 8.7 in October, the highest reading in six months, from minus 17.5 in September.

Any reading above zero indicates expansion in the region's manufacturing. The survey covers factories in eastern Pennsylvania, southern New Jersey and Delaware.

"This is yet another number consistent with a slow-growing economy, but no recession," said Cary Leahey, a senior economist at Decision Economics in New York.

Reports ranging from retail sales to trade have suggested a pick-up in economic activity after a weak first half.

That view was also bolstered on Thursday, with the four-week moving average of jobless claims, considered a better measure of labor market trends, hitting a six-month low last week.

the US”">Michael Woolfolk, senior currency strategist at BNY Mellon in New York, said recent data on payrolls and retail sales had "effectively removed the double-dip scenario for the US"

. "The weekly fall in jobless claims adds to this, and the four-week moving average continues to drift lower. But we are still a long distance from the 200,000 new Miles Austin Jerseys jobs a month we need for a sustainable improvement in the unemployment rate," he said.
claims data covered the survey week for the government's closely watched nonfarm payrolls count for October.">The claims data covered the survey week for the government's closely watched nonfarm payrolls count for October.

First-time applications for jobless aid fell 25,000 between the September and October survey periods, suggesting a step-up in nonfarm employment after payrolls increased 103,000 last month.

US stocks were trading up slightly, while prices for

Treasury debt fell. The dollar was up broadly.

An anemic economic recovery has left job growth frustratingly slow and the unemployment rate stuck above 9%. The claims report implied employers were not rapidly dismissing workers, despite an uncertain economic outlook.

While most parts of the economy show improvement, the housing market remains a sore spot.

Sales of existing homes dropped 3.0% to an annual rate of 4.91 million units, the National Association of Realtors said in another report.

"Housing is still struggling and continues to be one of the biggest drags on the economy. Mortgage rates are low, but unemployment is high so I do not see where the growth can come in housing," said Jessica Hoversen, an analyst at MF Global in New York.

The Conference Board warned that the economy faced a 50% chance of recession despite modest gains in its leading index of activity last month.

But there is reason to be cautiously optimistic. After spiking in mid-September, jobless claims appear to have settled near the 400,000 mark that is usually associated with some improvement in the jobs market.